09 April 2008

New Delhi horror

26 Dec 2007
As New Delhi is dotted as the capital of India in the world map, our ignorant impression of it was a buzzing metropolic city. It was buzzing.. buzzing with dirt and hunger. The ride to our hotel was disturbing; it was late at night, the streets were drowned in rubbish, there were a great number of people squalid and squatting by these filthy roads. Worried about our safety, I posed my driver a very serious question, "Is this area safe?" He turned around, gave me a disconcerting look and said "God bless you, madamme"
.It wasnt at all comforting to see a water-dispenser truck stationed right outside your hotel.

It was only the beginning of our Delhi horror.

We finally got our room after a good 30mins worth of hoo-haas. Tired and needing a shower badly only to find that the water here is just as bad as Bangalore. Water in India trickles, smells, and leaves you wondering if you've actually washed off all the shampoo on your hair. I really hate the water in India.

We decided to shrug all these crap off and go out for some food. Thinking it was best to get the hotel's car service than hail a cab, we were again struck with fear. A car stained with permanent dust drove up to the hotel entrance and we entered to croaks and yawns of an annoyed driver. We told him specifically we wanted to go to a restaurant, or any 24-hour deli. He nodded "Yaa, yaa". Then he started driving towards the back alleys of those rundown buildings, stopped, and this random bloke with a hood, hands in his tattered jacket starts hunching towards our car, jumped in and our driver took off. =_=! My buddy was worried sick and had his phone ready, fist clenched to strike at any sudden movement.

(.A few days after we returned to Brunei, 2 girls were mobbed and molested by close to 20-30? men outside a hotel in New Delhi. I seriously dont advice girls to travel to India alone.)


.At 12am in the morning, he took us to a dodgy street stall filled with intimidating people and used tinfoil plates disposed of everywhere. It was dirty, it was disgusting.

We ran back to our car while constantly watching our backs. This time, I tried to make myself clear by raising my voice, "Restaurant!" "7-11??". He didnt seem to understand and went round and round in circles. Remembering we passed by Shangri-La earlier on, we clutched our tummies and demanded he take us there immediately!

"Civilisation, at last" cried my buddy.
In Delhi, the extremities between the rich and the poor is appalling. It is just a stone's throw between sub-human conditions and Shangri-La's grand entrance. People in here are donned with diamonds and strut with an air, seemingly unaware of the condensed misery beyond these thick glass doors.

Our sumptuous supper was to last us a couple of hours till our 5am train ride to Agra... which is here we go, scare no.2.
At barely 5am in darkness, Delhi is already wide-awake. We were running late but the traffic couldnt care less. With a few minutes to spare, our driver told us to get out of the car and make a run for the train station. It was the scariest shit ever. People were yelling out to us, we were this close to being run over, the train station compound were refuge to many, many, many homeless people. We ran and we ran... Just when we lift our feet off the platform, the chugging starts. Phew.

____________________________
28 Dec 2007
After a night in Agra (next post), we decided to return to Delhi for a day of touristy activities - we were determined to unearth the good in this city.

First thing first is to get our luggages out of Karol Bagh - the hell-hole according to my buddy, get ourselves a decent hotel and off on our adventure.

RAJGHAT
.Located at the west bank of River Yamuna.

Raj Ghat (King Court) is the place where Mahatma Ghandi, the father of India, was cremated. A memorial is dedicated to him in the form of a simple black marble platform, with the epitaph He Ram (translated to 'O God') which is believed to be the last words uttered by Gandhi before collapsing after being shot.

An eternal flame burns perpetually on his resting place, and the marble is so brilliantly polished that it reflects the passing clouds.

Gandhi was known to be in harmony with nature, therefore his samadhi are enclosed with trees, and little plots of white pebble stones.

A soothing music that seems to be echoing from the skies played continuously... walking through this park brought an immeasurable sense of peace to me.


INDIA GATE & THE PRESIDENTIAL PALACE
.Located at the heart of the capital, Rajpath.

The India Gate (42m high) is built as a memorial in honor of 90,000 soldiers who sacrificed their life during WWI and the Afghan wars. The flame of an immortal warrior, Amar Jawan Jyoti, has been burning under it since 1971. This gate instantly reminded me of the Arc de Triomphe of Paris! It seems like a very popular place for the locals. There were an arcade of vendors, children blowing soap bubbles, monkey performances and people practically picnicking by the pavement. I was repeatedly harassed by a woman who wanted to give me a henna, while casually waving her needle around. I freaked out when she wouldnt let go of my arm. Huuhuuhuu.

Directly opposite India Gate lies the presidential palace (Rashtrapati Bhawan), the official residence of the President of India. The iron gates, which is as far as we can go, are copied from a pair that Sir Edwin Lutyen (its designer) saw in Chiswick, England. This place is beautiful and it's obvious that the architecture has elements borrowed from European styles.

KHAN MARKET
Known to be extremely popular with the diplomatic community and the most expensive place to shop in New Delhi, we were pretty shocked when driven here. It's nothing like what we saw on the web. "This is Khan Market madamme, this one Khan Market, here!" Where are the so-called excellent book stores, delicatessens, fabric stores, nike?? On the other side. And we missed out on that. Bad driver, friggin driver.

New Delhi and Old Delhi is simply divided by a short bridge, however they are a world apart. It is obvious where the emphasis is put and money in this country is spent. Old Delhi appeared as an abandoned child left to fend for itself. Driving around here is quite a pain. The streets are bursting with rickshaws, horses, elephants, and people. Traffic law does not exist in any sense. We dreaded every traffic stop, because we have to endure the sights of malnourished children bending their arms, somersaulting, and imitating monkeys, hoping that the few seconds of entertainment can earn them something in return. Our driver advised against giving money as this will attract a hoard of them possibly banging on our car. We lowered down our window, wide enough to slide whatever is left of our chips to this lil' girl. She hastily grabbed it, and started grubbing everything down. It was a very disturbing sight.

.R: Pronounced "Nine" what our driver called not man, not woman. Apparently this is not uncommon in India, there is a hospital that performs free sexual transplants for men in return for their sex organs. How true is this, i have no idea.

Having had a long day, we decided to treat ourselves to dinner at Bukhara, one of the top 50 restaurants in the world, in Maurya Sheraton. Even after making reservations, the queue is still insanely long. We had to wait more than 30mins, roaming around we found bar Dublin, one of the top 25 bars in the world by accident, also nested in this hotel.


I love the decor in Dublin bar, and the $20+ worth of pint.

Food at Bukhara was great, though i wouldnt say out-of-this-world. Lets just say, you're not at the top without a top price that comes with it.

Averaging 2 to 3 hours of sleep for the past few nights and fighting fatigue, we cant wait to fly back to Bangalore to laze off the remaining of our holiday.

05 April 2008

Goa, where life is colourful - Day 3 & 4

Very paiseh that im not done with India posts yet after 3 long months. Eeeekkkk. But like Caryn says better late than never.
Continuation of our Indian saga...

There is more to Goa than sun, sand and psychedelia.
.25, 26 Dec 2007.

When the eat-drink-party pattern wears thin, we decided to dig deep into Goa's roots and tour the famous UNESCO World Heritage Sites that we've read about.
Panaji - Capital of Goa
We started out early in the morning, chauffered by Sunil .. the best driver we've had in Goa .., towards Panaji (Panjim) which means "the land that does not flood". He parked by one of the streets and told us to go explore this small yet charming city on foot.

Panjim is nestled on the left banks of River Mandovi. My instant take to this place is to the buildings, that still bears and reminds people of its Portuguese heritage. It has come a long way from being a small time fishing village to becoming one of the most influential city in Goa.
.Sit at your own risk.

Churches are one of Goa's most important institutions. They are the legacy of Goa's history, the legacy of Portuguese colonization. Almost all of them has a tale behind it.

We covered St. Catherine's Cathedral. The largest church in Asia. If you only have time for one church, this is the church you should visit. The Convent and Church of St. Monica, The Church of St.Francis Assisi, The Basilica of Bom Jesus. The most memorable church for me mainly because we paid a tour guide to show us around. He had a genius bank of memory and to me sounded just like a playback machine. In here lies the body of Saint Francis Xavier who was deemed the greatest missionary since the time of the Apostles, highly admired and respected in Goa for his work during the plague epidemic period.

Fighting the sun that seriously wants to melt us away, I think i just about had enough of churches.

We spent the night cruising the Mandovi river. The entire upper deck is lined with plastic chairs facing a stage with entertainment that hands-down trumped the city view.
All i can say is "gimmmmmeee some of those dancing cells!!"


.Check out the girl in a white dress. Ohmy...

We've been trying to get our hands on some Goan chillout music. We've looked everywhere and end up spending our money on anything and everything except Goan music cds; the most outrageous being a baby and 2 adult hammocks. "Buy laaaa, it's so cheap $20 only, where to find in Brunei???" "Buy la..buy la" ended up in us paying 160USD for excess baggage. =_=!
.See the culprit calling out to us?. Got ourselves some beauuuUUutiful Goan lanterns.

Some kind soul finally told us that the one and only place you can find Goan music is in Anjuna flea market, that is only held once a week - on the Wednesday we're leaving. Gahhhh. We cut Sunil a deal to drive us to Anjuna and back then to the airport for half the price (sounds blardy good), BUT in return we have to make several stops at souvenir shops (where we have to literally PRETEND, after 10 stops, to be interested in their carpets, tea, paintings, whatever, for at least 15mins so our driver can accumulate points in exchange for a stereo, new tires, fan, or money). Be prepared for this when you tour India. All taxi drivers will insist on taking you to souvenir shops. If you're running on a super tight schedule, give them a firm NO.

Anjuna beach is what some calls the “hippie beach”.Hundreds of tourists flock here in their braided hair-dos and pierced body parts.

.*Gasp* Antonio Banderas??. The fortunate and the not-so-fortunate.
.OMG, is that Mao Tze Dong?.

You can get anything from a second-hand paperback to a haircut, from jewellery to carvings, T-shirts, sarongs or bags, beaded tops and almost anything else you can think of. One important mantra - No discount, no buy!


Thinking i'm about to leave Goa with the best of memories, little did i know disaster no.1 was abound when i stepped into the departure terminal. It was chaotic. The scanning and check-in area seemed as if it was strategically placed (one left, one right) to confuse passengers. Assholes cutting queues with compelling reasons; "I'm in a hurry", are we not all in a hurry?? The most obnoxious staff; forgotten that all our hand luggages had to be tagged, we were stopped by an officer before boarding the plane. We ran to the baggage screening area, heaving for tags only to be answered by a disinterested face with a "it's not my duty". WTH? Why are you here in uniform then?? The tags were just an arm away from him.

We were really frustrated... but looking back we're so glad we've seen Goa. The allure of this little state is that it remains quite distinct from the rest of India and is small enough to be grasped and explored in a way that other Indian states are not.

.Next flight out: New Delhi.

01 April 2008

Fabulous Anilao - Day 7,8,9,10

2nd leg of our Philippines Dive Odyssey.
I think i'm getting used to waking up before the sun.. I'm passed the whinging and whining and squirming in bed phase. I'm an early bird. Right...
.Incredible view from our hilltop hut.

Anilao is very much unlike other dive resorts which are usually flanked by foreign faces and accents. Just because it's a short 2.5hrs drive from Manila, you'd catch city dwellers running down the sand bar in their cockjocks, bikinis, flipflops and snorkels bouncing off their face like a trunk. The sight of children dipping their heads into shallow waters in search of that magical shell or nemos is enough to give it that local touch.

Besides that, the owner of Balai Resort, Larry, is always all smiles and extremely approachable. He has a great team behind him that cooks the most delicious Philippino food! We were served diligently, buffet-style, at 7-9am (breakfast), 12-2pm (lunch), 7-9pm (dinner) and they never fail to exceed our expectations, the food just gets better every day. A happy stomach makes a happy me. What surprised us was that they offer massage services at 400 pesos an hour, which is what ... $14BND!?. After an entire day of diving, you'd believe they have miraculous hands with healing powers.
To top off the extremely good service we get from the kitchen and dive staff, Anilao continues to bowl us over with it's treasure trove of dive sites. Our first dive was an incredible welcoming gift. Toro's point, named after the grazing bulls of it's shore, is a muck diver's heaven. With little or close to zero corals, a handful of fish, and a carpet of pebbles ... you'd think this is a dump site. But for macrophotographers, the keen eyes, this is where the gold lies. This would involve a sand-scavenging sweep of the floorbed, uncovering the wonders of marine evolution.
The good stuff we saw included pygmy seahorses (yellow and purple), seahorses, ambon scorpionfish, variations of ghost pipefish, frogfish, harlequin shrimps, snake eels, mandarinfish, blennies, wonderpus (when i skipped a dive? Huuhuu ={ ), and an astounding variety of nudibranchs and flatworms.
.Some of my favourites.
.Toro's and Basura are definitely the top spots for macros.

.Friggin' wonderpus that i missed out on =( Picture taken by Andrew.

One of the most popular dive sites around here is The Cathedral... that features a cross planted by former president Fidel Ramos. The fish here are extremely eager in looking for quick feeds, so save a piece of that bread you had for lunch.


.Wide-angle shots of Angel and I by Andrew..Two nincompoops.

.Our surface intervals usually involves soaking up the sun, tea and cofffee, roaming round the island, and occassionally we'd make new friends, like Andy, the poor dried coconut shell that was later given a formal death ceremony by Andrew.

It was a very rewarding 5 days in Anilao. This trip is worth every penny, every shiver, every burnt skin that we've endured. It's proven itself to be worth a 2nd visit.

For more underwater photos of Anilao, you can visit:
My Flickr or Andrew's Flickr
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